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Re: Floor & Seatbelt Prices...
I am currently undertaking replacing my floor. Their are pans available I
think they are around 150 a side. I am cheap and hard headed so I made my
own out of a sheet of 18 gauge sheet metal it was $32. I started by cutting
out the rotten floor but leaving the tunnel. I then made cardboard templates
for the floor. I placed in the sheet metal and traced off the factory
supports and then removed so I could drill 5/16 holes so they would sit on
the lip of the rails. These were spaced about 1 a inch and are so you can
go back and spot weld it in place. I then welded up the seem between the
tunnel and the pan. This process has taken me far longer than I could have
imagined but it is coming along nicely. My tunnel is also rotted in the
front so I plan to roll a new one with clearance for a Toyota transmission
I am putting in a Toyota power train Eventually). Try to leave the seat
support because it is impossible or at least very hard to duplicate.
If I had the money and could go back I would have just bought the pans.
my 2 cents Kirk
-----Original Message-----
From: Nathan Hendler <equant@azstarnet.com>
To: Metropolitan Mailing List <metropolitan@listserv.azstarnet.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 13, 1999 7:43 PM
Subject: Floor & Seatbelt Prices...
>
>I was wondering if I could get some opinions about what I should expect to
>pay...
>
>My Met needs to have it's floors repaired. There are two small rust holes
>in the pasenger side, and if I gave them a swift kick it'd easily become
>one large rust hole. Can anyone give me an idea of what I should expect
>to pay? Maybe a best-case -> worse-case price range? I just want to make
>sure I have an idea before I go looking for someone to do the work, I
>don't want to get screwed, and I don't want it done cheaply either.
>
>Also, any ideas on how much it should cost to get seat-belts installed?
>Any tips on what I should ask for, like a particular style of seatbelts or
>method of instalation (safetly being the concern <duh>).
>
>Thanks,
>Nathan
>
>